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Written by Trudy Norbury and edited by Ann Norbury |
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We received a warm welcome into the Spanish Virgin Islands. Once formalities were completed, the US Customs and Immigration officer in Dewey, Culebra, used his map to show us the local places of interest. These largely aligned with Bruce Van Sant’s suggestions in either The Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South 8th Edition or Cruising Guide to The Virgin Islands 11th Edition. The most welcome information was that the Naval Range on Viequez was now closed, saving us the trouble of choosing our anchorages around the military schedule. From Ensenada Honda, we took an upwind motor sail to visit Culebrita Cay. The north easterly swells ensured that we had a bumpy ride around the northern edge of the Island, which subdued to a gentle rocking motion when Luna Azul was attached to one of the DNR’s free mooring buoys. There was little evidence of shells on the beach, but to our delight there were sea beans galore. Any day at Culebrita would not be complete without a soak in the baths. As we clambered over the rock path towards the baths we did not have to worry about leaving the dingy anchored of the rocky shore as there was only a one foot tidal range. The swell running on the day we visited explained why the name of “the Jacuzzis” was very appropriate. Having chosen to visit mid-week to avoid the local visitors we were able to appreciate the cool bubbly water in solitude. That evening we tied to a free mooring buoy in the tranquil anchorage of Bahia De Almodovar. We were disappointed that we could not venture out to the reefs around Culebrita, due to waves leaking into the area, so we settled for exploring the reefs around the evening’s anchorage. They proved to be rather mediocre as we could only find small pockets of activity, with no lobsters or edible fish. Due to the mangroves, we had to shut up the boat early to prevent the mosquitoes and no-see-ums from carrying us away.
Idyllic Flamenco Beach The following day we headed back to anchor in Ensenada Honda Bay so that we could hike over to Flamenco Beach. We took the road that let up the hill behind the airport and at the top we could see our anchorage to the west and the beach to our north. As we completed the 50 minute walk, we were relieved to find a government-run facility with a stand that sold cold water and rented out beach equipment. It was possible for the less ambitious to travel by bicycle, scooters, jeeps or taxi vans that are all available for rent in Dewey. We were surprised to be impressed by the beach’s width, length and softness underfoot – not to mention that we found more sea beans. On the return journey, we enjoyed the hospitality of El Batey’s for a few cold beers and found the local grocery store that sold essential provisions like ice cream. Late the next morning we went the short distance south to the anchorage at Bahia Icacos, on Vieques. This was to be the first time that we had to read the water depth with the vigilance that we had learnt in the Bahamas. On our second attempt we found deep water through to the protected bay. We were to free dive the live reefs and relax in relative isolation for the next few days – local boats used this bay as a day anchorage at the weekend. We were deterred from visiting the beaches due to the signs that warned “No Trespassing – Authorized Personnel Only – Danger Explosives” with pictures of an exploding bomb and a red scull and cross
“No Trespassing – Authorized Personnel Only – Danger Explosives” When we arrived at Salinas Del Sur we found more signs warning us not to go ashore and a more explicit sign that warned of unexploded ammunition. On the reefs we came across numerous bombs with the largest contending with the size of our dinghy. From the anchorage it was possible to see tanks and other military equipment that had been used for target practice residing on top of what are now potholed hills. The locals claim that this area is used by drug runners to exchange their pharmaceuticals for money. We made a very brief overnight visit to Ensenada Honda, Vieques, as the mangrove bay was a distance from the reefs and the murky waters were inhabitant by jelly fish. We were surprised though to find that the easterly winds still crept into the anchorage providing us with a cool breeze overnight. Our next stop was at a bioluminescent bay called Puerto Ferro. After dark we climbed into the dinghy to drive around in circles to see the phosphorescent glow that showed our track. Due to the brightness of the moon, the display was dampened and was less impressive than what we had seen previously when making passages in the big boat at night. We found out later Mosquito Bay had a much more luminous display and to protect the bay only electric powered vessels are allowed access. This did not present us with any issue as Luna Azul’s nearly six foot draft was too deep to even consider entering the Bay.
Entrance to Puerto Ferro Bay We went the short distance to the municipal beach at Sun Bay, from where we walked into the nearby water front town of Esperanze. On the promenade we visited the museum, where we were able to see a wonderful display of shells, beans, and local archeological finds. The local volunteer on duty was able to able to share with us her view of this tranquil Island where her family owned an art studio. We followed this by a wonderful meal in one of the local restaurants overlooking the small Harbour. Due to the rolly anchorage at Sun Bay we concluded the afternoon by retreating to the calm of Puerto Ferro. Our last stop on Vieques was Green Beach. A week later, Graham returned there in a go-fast dinghy with a newly-found Navy fishing partner. Combing the reefs of Green Beach did not yield much fishing success, but revealed the beauty of the living corals. This area is very popular with local people at the weekend, when they pull their speed boats up to the beach to enjoy a lazy day socializing, bathing in the water, eating and drinking. Our time in the Spanish Virgin Islands offered us an ideal opportunity to cruise less traveled waters. We enjoyed the solitude offered by the remoteness of the protected anchorages. It was possible to believe we were the only humans on the Islands as we enjoyed beaches and snorkeling locations to ourselves. The small towns were friendly and accommodating to our requests for information and basic food supplies. Having left the bustle of the BVI and USVI we were not sure we were quite ready to leave the Spanish Virgin Islands and return to the faster pass of life in the main Island of Puerto Rico. |
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Crew: Trudy and Graham Norbury, and their cats Sylvester and Shadow
Written 17th February and edited 3rd March 2004 |
