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Written by Trudy and Graham |
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The crystal clear waters, warm temperatures and slower pace of life in the Bahamas have enhanced our first winter of living aboard Luna Azul, our Camper & Nicholson 35’ sailboat. Having departed corporate America, burned out by the hectic pace of life of the internet boom, the transition to the ‘Island Time’ was captivating. Being at the mercy of the weather, fellow cruiser and local customs was both alluring and challenging as we adapted to living from moment to moment and less on idealistic techno-deadlines.
Allan's Cay, Exuma Immediately upon arriving in the idyllic Bahamian waters, we were struck by the variety of colors ranging from light green through turquoise to deep cobalt blue. Swimming next to the navy-blue hull of Luna Azul in the topaz water with a dolphin and her baby warms the deepest recesses of our hearts. The baby gently rubs its nose into the sand then playfully jumps out of the water in response to us diving down and joining her in her loosely bounded play room. The sudden appearance of a nine foot nurse shark serves to both keep us alert, and remind our new playmates that it is time to move on.
Playful baby dolphin These same waters contain dinner in many shapes and forms. At the beginning of our trip, spiny lobsters were elusive and timid, preferring their deep caves to the contact with others. One sunny afternoon we returned fully exhausted from spear fishing with two 8lb monster lobsters. As winter gave way to spring, these creatures became bolder and bolder, and could frequently be found strolling around the reefs in search of potential mates. On March 29th we successfully concluded our first Bahamian lobster season by landing six large bugs, including Trudy’s first two ever and Graham getting two on the spear at the same time! No tropical paradise would be complete without white sandy beaches lined with gently swaying coconut palms. In some of the more accessible locations, cruisers may harvest the fresh nuts; however frequently this is not as simple as it might seem due to the heights involved. At one abandoned Cay we were excited to see a triple extension ladder propped up against a palm, ready to assist us with the precarious capture of several large coconuts. Sitting in our cockpit drinking gin and coconut water as the sun sinks below the horizon is a fine way to end another day in paradise.
What a conveniently placed ladder! Beyond our newfound roles as hunter-gatherers we spent time exploring and discovering may small Cays (islands) and their residents. Each location has its own unique qualities, with many areas uninhabited, or long since abandoned. Local wildlife, including a great many curly tailed lizards, scurry through the mangroves and provide plenty to observe while strolling along the long sandy beaches. Sadly, there are increasingly numerous Cays being sold off for private development, soon to become totally off limits to all but their rich and famous guests. We were drawn to the friendliness on the Family Islands, where everyone meets you with a warm smile and genuine desire to welcome new guests. It seemed to us the smaller the community the greater the hospitality. These locals shared with us their love of the sea. Many are passionate about their Bahamian racing with many settlements hosting local festivals attended by both Bahamians and cruisers alike. Watching Bahamian sloops drifting around the family-islands regatta race course is an entertaining way to spend an afternoon.
B-class sloop racing at the Family Islands Regatta With the air temperature generally staying somewhere between 65ºF and 90ºF, (more normally in the 80s), the Bahamas are a great location for the winter months. We departed the Bahamas with found memories, colorful photographs, a few shells collected along the way, and a strong desire to return next year. Crew: Trudy and Graham Norbury, and their cats Sylvester and Shadow
Written 4th May and edited 25th July 2003
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